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Mr. Underhills at Dinham Weir

Mr. Underhills at Dinham Weir

Mr. Underhills at Dinham Weir

Tel.: 01584 874431

June 2004

My first visit to the much feted and much Michelin starred town of Ludlow and what a pleasure the entire experience was.

We booked a room at this Michelin starred Restaurant With Rooms adjacent to the weir behind Ludlow Castle (the room was fantastic but not the purpose of this review).

Pre-dinner drinks are taken either in the small bar or, more enjoyably on a bright summers evening, in the terrace garden overlooking the river. A gorgeous glass of Kir heightened the appetite for the delights to come as did there being no menu (when booking you are asked about your tastes and selections made in advance for each course of the five or six course extravaganza with the first choice on the night being at the dessert course or for your drinks/wine!).

This feast is priced at 36.00 (Cheese an additional 4.00 per person) excluding drinks.

After our aperitifs we were shown into the surprisingly spacious and airy dining room overlooking the weir. Bread was offered and taken and was an extremely light and airy sour dough. First course was Marinated Wild and Smoked Salmon with Gazpacho which was served as a large "amuse bouche" and perfectly set the tone for the delights ahead.

The salmon was a small pattie of thinly sliced pieces of the two salmons served on a refreshing pool of very tomatoey (sic) gazpacho. Delightful! We accompanied this and the next course with a half bottle of Alsace Riesling (12.50) and a carafe of water.

Next up after our appetites had been suitably heightened, was Bridgnorth asparagus with asparagus risotto, aged balsamic vinegar and shavings of parmesan. This was served as a small mound of perfectly executed risotto surmounted by a crown of asparagus tips. The contrast between the crisp and succulent asparagus, the slightly gloppy rice and the balsamic was wonderful.

The wine again proved a perfect accompaniment. To accompany our main course we selected a bottle of Turtle Flat Barossa Grenache (a whopping 15% and an amazing mouthful of flavours at 21.00). This turned out to be a perfect selection.

Main course arrived and continued the previously established WOW! effect. Fillet of Marches beef scented with red pepper and orange dust with smoked butter. The beef was the most exquisitely melt in the mouth texture imaginable and was gently flavoured as described (reminiscent of a light Spanish smoked paprika) perfectly complemented by sweet peppers and a bowl of cardamom scented mash (more puree than mash but even better with the fillet for that).

Service throughout was extremely good, attentive without being too bothersome.

Next up was time for us to think again! We chose to share a portion of cheese before moving on to dessert. The cheese selection came as eight small pieces of perfectly "a point" ripe cheese (all British) served on a slate board and with light and fruity bread. The selection included Finn, Beenleigh Blue, local goat's cheeses, Montgomery Cheddar and more and helped finish off the last of the wine. Parfait!!

Next was the dessert. First was an "amuse bouche" portion of White Chocolate ice cream with Sweet Chilli syrup. This sounded bizarre but was in fact a marriage made in food heaven. The smooth and sweet chocolatey ice cream had a drizzle of red syrup which at first tasted merely sweet. Soon however a mild but noticeable spiciness kicked in which perfectly complemented the ice cream.

Dessert wines are available in normal 125ml glasses (and bottles) and also in 50ml glasses (3.50) which gave a perfect opportunity to sample with dessert.

We opted (having to make a choice being the hardest part of the night so far!) for Highland Parfait and for a Rich Vanilla Rice Pudding with Plums and both were wonderful.

Excellent coffee and home made petit fours ( especially noteworthy the fresh raspberries dipped in white chocolate) brought a suitable and relaxed conclusion to a truly wonderful meal.

Definitely a location to treasure and one where a truly special experience is to be had.

Ted Heath



Eatanddrink Ratings

Mr.Underhills at Dinham Weir

Total Score: 91%
Quality: Exceptional
Service: Exceptional
Facilities: Above Average
Ambience: Above Average
Value: Good


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